maandag 30 augustus 2010

Still in Rifle - Let's clip some ankers!`

Last three days where some sending days! I did Roadside Prophet, 8b+ from the 9th go the day after the rest day. This is my 3th 8b+ but it feels like my first again, it was such a long time ago that I have had the possibility to try something hard! I'm totally psyched now to crush some other amazing routes!

I almost forgot how nice it is to send something hard! The conditions where great and the atmosphere even better! I was totally inspired by all the good climbers around me. When I was sending the route there where the best American climbers below me and encouraging me! Big names like Joe Kinder, Lauren Lee, Emely Harington, Sam Elais and some more strong and friendly climbers.
The best encourage came from Joe who screamed just when I entered the crux "That's some fucking nice Belgium style dude!".

Now I'm climbing with a strong climber named Ryan Palo who comes from Oregon. This is also really motivating me to try harder things. The bad thing is that I only have one more week left.

For the moment I'm trying a super nice 8b named Huge. I tried it once because of my painful fingers. After my send of Roadside I had three cuts in my fingers, so I couldn't climb witch my normal strength anymore. I'm hoping that it's getting better tomorrow for the new climbing day.

Now we'll take a dive in this nice reservoir!

Let's climb in the time there is!

donderdag 26 augustus 2010

Rifle 2 - Long, Hard, Painfull and Fun!

I found my project, I'm trying Roadside Profit 8b+. An amazing rout of 35meters, starts with a big roof and on the end of that roof the crux is attacking you! After the roof you arrive on a vertical wall with a good rest. After that it's slightley overhanging and stil a 7c+ is comming. The redpoint crux is just before the anker, really pumpy and some technical moves. The big trick is to keep your mind with the climbing overthere, it asks a good focus!

If I'm able to finish that project I'm gonna try to get to RMNP for some tradclimbing or bouldering. The hard thing is to find a ride and some climbing partners.

I heard what happend in the Alps and I feel really bad for that. The last climbing days I've been climbing with my mind for a part thinking about the accident. I wish the familly and friends of Cloe a lot of strength.

zondag 22 augustus 2010

Rifle - Sportclimbing world again!

It has been a long time since I wrote something on my blog! The reason for it is because Rifle is far away from the real world where they have phones and internet :).

Rifle is a beautiful place for sportclimbing, a lot of hard routes and a lot of different styles! The first week I climbed in Rifle wasn't that good because I was sick and coudn't climb with al my strength. Altough I did a lot of different and nice classic routes.

The rithme of climbing I have for the moment is quite high. The last two weeks I only took two restdays! From the moment I did two 8a's on a day I knew my strength was comming back. From then I did two 8a+'s and one 8b.

For the moment I'm trying Zulu, the hardest 8b+ in the canyon. The following days I also gonna try Roadside Prophet, the same grade but seems to me an awsome route! I'll see what it brings!

Rifle canyon is one of the hardest limestone canyons I ever climbed at. It's really hard to onsight routes, so that brings a new goal. Try as many onsights I can!

Time's up!

donderdag 5 augustus 2010

Colorado - Boulder Totally different

My last days in Squamish were great! I concentrated myself on some boulder problems. After the hard day of bouldering I already told about, I did a short multipitch of three pitches.
The day after I went bouldering again and I did my first V9 named Nick's Link. It is a lower start of the V8 Gibbs Cave I did two days before!
After that I tried an even lower start of it who is V10, but that was to much for the day, I was close!

Now I'm in Boulder CO, this is an amazing place. The environment is totally different than in Squamish, there's not that much vegetation and everything is dry. There are those thunderstorms every afternoon. Very funny because it's the whole day beautiful weather just until 2pm when the storm is coming up. It isn't to bad because the storm stops after an hour.

I haven't climbed yet because of some practical reasons. I was lucky to have met a guy at the airport who is a climber and who is living in Boulder. I took the bus to Boulder with that guy, he was living with a whole bunch of climbers in a house. I stayed there for the night.
Now I'm staying in an other house with also a lot of climbers. The only problem is that all of them work in the week and only can go climbing in the weekend. So the plan now is to go to Rifle this weekend with a guy of Colombia who also live in the house I'm staying right now. I'll see where the trip brings me!

It is really special to meet all those new people, really interesting actually! It's totally new for me to just meet some people and just stay at their houses. This is called couch-surfing. But it's possible and the people here don't really care and even like it!

Boulder is a beautiful city with a really nice city life, when you go a little bit out of the city your in nature between some beautiful cracks in the boulder canyon!

Twitter Delicious Facebook Digg Stumbleupon Favorites More